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  <title>The Virtual Repairman's  Appliance Help</title>
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    <description>It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you</description>
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                                      <item>
                                        <title>whirlpool dryer</title>
                                        <link>http://repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72#72</link>
                                        <description>&lt;br /&gt;
                                      Author: &lt;a href='http://repair2000.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&amp;u=2'&gt;Virtual Repairman&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:19 am&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      Let's go back to square-one, Jose;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Take out your Volt meter and test the voltage coming to the back of the dryer where the cord attaches. It must read 240 volts across the 2 end terminals. Without this, the dryer will not heat.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The timer in the top console needs to be checked also, using the wiring diagram which came on the unit. It shows you which timer contacts are closed for the heater to work. For this task, you can use your Volt meter as well by checking across the timer contacts mentions while the unit is running. There should be no reading across a closed timer contact, so any voltage read between 2 contacts indicates an open contact.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Power to the heater flows fromthe timer to a temp switch (if yours has one) then down to the thermal fuse, the operating thermostat and the high-limit. These components can be checked for continuity by unplugging the dryer and using your OHM meter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last but not least is the motor centrifugal switch. When the motor is running there are 2 contacts on this switch which close to send power to the heater. If these contacts do not close, guess what...no heat. This switch can best be checked with the drum removed and the motor running. The heat contacts are the 2 wires closest to the motor shaft on either side of the switch box. The wiring diagram will identify them by color. With the dryer not running- there should be 240 volts at the switch contacts for the heater, with the  timer set to heat.</description>
                                        <comments>http://repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72#72</comments>
                                        <author>Virtual Repairman</author>
                                        <pubDate>Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:19 am</pubDate>
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                                      <item>
                                        <title>No hot air from dryer</title>
                                        <link>http://repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=71#71</link>
                                        <description>&lt;br /&gt;
                                      Author: &lt;a href='http://repair2000.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&amp;u=-1'&gt;Anonymous&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 5:57 pm&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
                                      My Whirlpool dryer MDL LER4634E spins and blows cold air into the drum.  I replaced the heater element as well as the thermal fuse.  Help!!</description>
                                        <comments>http://repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=71#71</comments>
                                        <author>Anonymous</author>
                                        <pubDate>Wed Oct 20, 2004 5:57 pm</pubDate>
                                        <guid isPermaLink="true">http://repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=71#71</guid>
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