The Virtual Repairman's Appliance Help

bonnie

Hi:
I have a RoperREX3514RQ1.
My dryer is vented at a 90 degree angle and my laundry room is in the middle of my house. It goes into the wall, up the wall then out between the floors about 15 feet.
Because of this I cannot keep the vent cleaned out properly and my dryer keeps blowing Thermal Cut offs.
Today I went and bought another one. part #279816. I brought it home, pulled out my dryer and put the new thermal cut off on. I replaced both pieces this time when usually I just put on the part that goes on the top.
I closed it up and put it back and plugged it in. The dryer ran for a few minutes, heated up and shut off.
My first load dried and I took it out. I put in the next load and pushed the button to turn it on and nothing. No power. I checked the breaker and that is not the issue.
Did I blow a fuse or something?
Help

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 4:00 pm Post subject: checking things out

Hi Bonnie;

I'm afraid from this point forward, you must have a volt meter (not a tester) to check voltage at the wall plug and to check the thermal fuses in your dryer. Naturally if your vent is blocked or restricted, the fuses will blow as designed. Replacing them without cleaning the vent is futile.

Do you own or know someone who has a voltmeter?

Oh, and your vent situation is all too common here in our area as well. Why a builder would isolate the dryer to the center of the house is beyond me.... anyway, you would benefit from the 24 foot dryer vent cleaner that goes on your cordless drill. We can't keep them in stock fast enough... By keeping the vent clean you will not blow thermals so often.

bonnie · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:06 pm Post subject:

hi thank you anyway
I couldn't wait for a reply. I found the tester and there was no through current. I went to my appliance store and they double checked it. It was the fuse. I brought it home and now my dryer is running, albeit without the vent attached at the moment LOL
I really need to find a way to fix that.
Thankyou for having this site and posting great helpful information on it. I appreciate it.
I will look for one of thode vent cleaners, again I thank you

bonnie · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:29 pm Post subject:

I just checked my dryer. No heat, I guess I need to replace the thermal cut-off again too. This really bites.
I really need to get that vent cleaner

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:31 pm Post subject: dryer woes

The vent cleaner we have.

bonnie · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 2:30 pm Post subject: My Roper is out yet again!!

Well, I replaced the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-off blew, I replaced the thermal cut-off, I turned the drier on and it heated up, but about 10-15 minutes later the drier shut off.
The clothes were so hot I could barely touch them and now there is no power to the dryer at all again!!
The timer doesn't seem to be moving at all now either.
Should I keep putting money into this lemon or should I just bite the bullet and go and buy a whole new machine????
P.S. I didn't connect the drier back to the vent this time, I left the vent off and the drier pulled out from the wall with the door to the garage left open so venting is not the problem this time.

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:35 pm Post subject: tell u what I think

I'd bet $5 that your heater element is shorted aginst the metal frame of the heater, causing it to stay on constantly. No wonder the fuse blows!

Take the element out and look, or use your OHM meter to see if there is continuity between any heater terminal and ground.

bonnie · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:02 pm Post subject:

I took out the heating element and it looks normal, there is continuity between everything I touched on the elements. It does look like it may have warped out a little. Should I just push it back down and try it again??

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:12 pm Post subject: heater

You check continuity with an OHM meter, unless you have calibrated eyeballs. The main thing is not to have any of the coils sag at all. If they accidentally touch anything else made of metal, it causes a direct short. This makes the heater stay very hot, as it cannot turn off until a fuse blows or it burns out.

If the heater is saggy, it likely got that way due to the vent problem (again). I would replace the heater if you are not sure that you have gotten the coils firmly back in place in a uniform manner.

bonnie · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:22 pm Post subject:

I'm sorry, I did check it with the meter, I eyeballed the coils and the piece of metal that the coils are on both sides of.
But wouldn't it be nice to have callibrated eyeballs. Razz

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:29 pm Post subject: checking for continuity

The best way to check this element is after you shove it back into the shroud and secure it. When it is in place, you can touch your OHM meter lead to either terminal and the other lead to the outside metal box. There should be no reading other than ZERO

bonnie · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:44 pm Post subject:

Ok. I got the new thermal fuse, put the heating element back on and checked, registered zero when touching post to steel.
Plugged it in and it has been running now for a half hour.
Working fine except the timer is still not moving.

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 8:03 pm Post subject: timer

Your timer is part #8299780. You obviously have a source for parts nearby, so see if they carry it.