The Virtual Repairman's Appliance Help

[fdbell]

It's a Maytag clothes washer, Model SE 7800, SN 100556. It burned up the motor a couple weeks ago (smoked, nearly caught fire). I replaced the motor, and it still didn't agitate. After filling the tub, I took the belts off to see whether it was something in the drive train, and the motor STILL doesn't start... it hums, only (and the room lights dim due to current draw). It's a new motor, and I'm sure it's connected correctly... how can you screw up red-to-red, blue-to-blue, etc?! What else could cause the motor to not start?

[Virtual Repairman]

The SE7800 uses a timer which controls motor direction, speed and the neutral circuit to the motor as well. If it were mine, I would replace the timer. It uses timer # 207783 and we stock them for $99.99 if you can't get one locally. Call 800-507-4040 during business hours to order.

[FDBELL]

Any way I can test the that theory before spending $100 on a part which "might" be bad?

[fdbell]

Should have added... I have and know how to use a voltmeter.

[Virtual Repairman]

a "part which might be bad"? I'm not sure what you're implying here.

Sure, be my guest. (Never mind the 31 years experience, I just like to cut to the chase these days

Your wiring diagram, along with a timer chart, is inside the center panel. It'll show you all kinds of stuff, including that the motor may be receiving voltage for more than one winding at the same time. For instance, what if the timer were sending signals to spin and agitate both?
It happens. The motor just sits there and fries.

I suppose this goes without asking, but has this machine been performing well before this problem started? What is the history on it?

[Guest]

History is that it performed well, until I replaced the timer on the dryer... the washer then fried its motor on first use afterwards, as described. (Dryer worked fine). Thought maybe I'd pulled a wire loose on the washer timer/controller, but not.

Implying nothing... except that I'd like to have some confidence that the part is really bad before spending $100. If you were able to say, for example, that the start circuit should draw 10 amps (or whatever), with no voltage on the run circuit untill started, or some such guideline, I could check for that. I have the diagram, but it doesn't tell me what I should be seeing on the motor at start...

[Virtual Repairman]

Ok, so now I know that the machine did fine until you replaced the timer for the dryer. Is it at all possible that you got 1 wire wrong when installing the dryer timer, causing power feedback to the other timer where it doesen't belong?


Have you double-checked the terminal connections on the dryer timer?
Why did you replace the dryer timer to begin with? Inquiring minds want to know

They seldom fail as do the washer timers. Keep in mind that the washer uses the same power that the dryer does to run. The only difference is that the dryer timer is set up on the opposing leg of the 240 volt circuit as the washer. Wiring must be done exactly as specified on the timer chart, or you can over-power other areas of the machine which were not inteneded to receive current.

I agree, it is odd that the washer section would act up after a previous repair like this.
Regarding wiring diagrams.....they do show you the path of current to the components on the machine. Do not be concerned about amperage draw, as we are looking only at the 120 volts which the timer is distributing to the various components. For example, if the schematic shows an internal timer switch closed to the motor start winding, you can find a 120 volt current at that wire when energized.

My suggestion to you at this point is to not replace anything else, but have a technician come by to diagnose this for you. You have picked the most complicated machine (well, 2nd most) to try and diagnose, and unless you are 100% efficient with the voltmeter, this could be a lesson in futility, both for you and me.