The Virtual Repairman's Appliance Help

Guest · Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:53 pm Post subject: Whirlpool Will Not Empty

Make: Whirlpool. Model number L-S-R-8-2-3-3-E-Q- the letter O or the numeral zero. Serial number: C-H-The letter O or the numeral zero-9-6-8-7-2-4. First time used: 16JUN00. Problem: On 24NOV05 I loaded the Whirlpool full and began a wash. I smelled a "burned rubber" or "burned electrical" odor and traced it to the Whirlpool. I opened the lid and saw the machine had completely stopped and the inner tub was FULL of water. I heard a very low humming. I tried to get the Whirlpool to at the very least empty by rotating the cycle switch to different settings. All I could get the Whirpool to do is agitate. I used a garden hose to siphon out the water. What do you think the problem may be? Thank you very, very much for being here and allowing me to join.

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 4:48 am Post subject: washer problem

Obviously, your motor will still turn in the agitate cycle, but cannot turn in the opposite direction to spin as is should. This may be due to a mechanical problem in the drive system itself, such as a locked up transmission or a bad motor. A thorough inspection of the drive system will be reqired by you to find the source of the problem.

I would begin by unplugging the machine and leaning it back against the wall so you can lie underneath and see all the components. The drive system is set up according to the following diagram:

First chech for any signs of broken wiring at the motor harness which could interrupt the spin circuit. Then, remove the pump and motor from the drive system by releasing the strap clips on the ends. The motor coupler should turn freely in both directions. If it does not, the transmission and drive system may need replacing.

smilingrepairman · Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 8:33 pm Post subject: Whirlpool Will Not Empty

I removed the pump and the motor. I must say the design is SUPERB! It pops right out. The first thing I noticed was that the narrow part of the plastic harness housing was broke and it fell off. (I can take pictures of any of this and email them.) This piece of plastic is near the BLACK colored wire. The motor coupler turns VERY freely in both directions. Could you please tell me what I can do now? Thank you.

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:53 am Post subject: Washer issue

Since you have discovered that the motor harness connector appears to have broken, you'll need a new motor. A damaged motor is not safe, especially where electricity is involved. Once the motor is replaced, which is a simple matter of plugging in the wiring harness, the machine may be OK. Since the drive shaft to the tranny turns fairly freely, we can deduce that the rest of the drive system is not an issue here.

smilingrepairman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: Washer Dilemma

The broken piece that I refer to is not dangerous and I do not want to waste an entire electric motor. I just sent you a .jpg of the problem. I could most certainly would be able to super glue the broken piece back in with a newfound precision, sir. Let us assume that I never mentioned said broken piece. What would your diagnosis then be? From whence came the aforementioned "burned rubber/electrical" odor? I have a huge amount of tools, tons of time and I even have an analog multitester. Perhaps you could explain to me the purpose of each wire and the corresponding color. As soon as my washer stopped working, I went and bought a new one, so it's not like I have an urgent need. I am a fool for Whirlpool and this new one will be my third. The first one lasted 9 years. The second 5 years.

Virtual Repairman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:51 pm Post subject: washer problem

I still maintain that the motor is likely the problem, since it does not run in the spin direction and produces an electrical odor. However, to be perfectly thorough, and since you have lots of time, open the top console and have a peek at the wiring schematic that came inside the machine. It will describe exactly which wires feed the motor, and which wires are energized for the wash and spin phases according to the timer chart thereon. You can even do your diagnostic checks from the timer itself, since it is the only other component which would affect the motor's operation in this manner. If the voltage output at the timer is correct according to the schematic, that leaves little doubt as to the integrity of your motor. Be sure to place one of your analog voltmeter leads on the Neutral wire at the timer as a reference point while checking the voltages with the other lead, as the timer also controls the Neutral line to the motor as well as the live voltage. Be sure to have the motor harness connected to run these checks, as timer output can vary under load/no-load conditions.

If the timer output for the spin phase is irregular, then the timer itself has bad contacts associated with the motor spin phase, and the timer is at fault. This would be indicated by a reading of less than 120 volts at the wire terminal for spin. Voltage checks at the timer are made from behind the plastic harness without removing it from the timer, using the correct wires mentioned in the diagram.