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GE dishwasher fills, then stops

 
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rcm2702
Apprentice DIYer


Joined: 26 May 2009
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 5:53 pm    Post subject: GE dishwasher fills, then stops Reply with quote

Just installed this scratch and dent special. Installation went smoothly. Problem is that water (hot) only enters into the tub for about 30 seconds and then stops. The machine will run through its cycle, even to the point that the detergent door opens and spills into the tub.

Any help woul be appreciated, thank you.

Model:
GLD5850LCS
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Virtual Repairman
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Joined: 06 Jul 1999
Posts: 4627
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: dishwasher Reply with quote

So you are saying that the unit only fills a little bit and only in the first wash?

Am I to assume that no more water enters the tub in subsequent cycles?

"Scratch, dent and quite old...did they tell you how old this thing really is??"
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rcm2702
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Joined: 26 May 2009
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not old at all, brand new floor model from Hope Depot. from 2 years ago.

Yes, the water only flows into the dishwasher for a few seconds when the start button is pressed. And does not enter again.

THanks for your reply.
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Virtual Repairman
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:53 am    Post subject: floor model Reply with quote

Here's what happens to "floor models"...children of all shapes and sizes like to twiddle the knobs and buttons on floor-demo stock. By the time the units are sold off at a discount there is usually something broken. In you case, it sound like the timer control may have been turned counter-clockwise instead of clockwise. This damages the contact points in the timer so they only work intermittently, especially to the water valve circuit.

You way to test this includes placing your voltmeter at the 2 wires on the water valve and running a cycle. When the unit calls for water at the beginning of every cycle, you should see 120 volts present at the valve terminals. It should be there for approximately 2 minutes into each cycle to allow the tub time to fill. If this voltage is not present for a sufficient time or not at all during subsequent cycles, then the timer is bad.

On the other hand, if the timer delivers 120 volts to the valve, yet the valve will not open, the valve is bad. I'm shooting for the timer myself. Hopefully they gave you some sort of guarantee.
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rcm2702
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Joined: 26 May 2009
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no knobs at all on the front of the machine. I have a multi-meter and will test as you suggested.

Thanks for your help.
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Virtual Repairman
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: valve Reply with quote

Take a closer look at the water valve. Some of the cheap valve solenoids that GE is using can actually be dislodged from the body of the valve and travel upward. See that the body of the solenoid is firmly mouinted to the body of the water valve while you're down there doing voltage checks. I now suspect the problem may only be a bad valve, but it's best to do the checkout to find out fer sure.
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rcm2702
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Joined: 26 May 2009
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

should the valve have a proper orientation in respect to the body (chassis or frame) of the dishwasher?
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 5:06 am    Post subject: valve Reply with quote

I'm not sure what you mean by orientation...the valve is supposed to be attached to the left lower frame with 2 mounting screws so that the valve body is pointing rearward. Again, a simple voltage check will determine what is going on.
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