The Virtual Repairman's Appliance Help

[Caffeine]

Hi all, i found some interesting information here but am finally stuck!
My maytag atlantis mdg6400aww dryer quit on me the other day and since then ive checked the door switch and thermal fuse for connectivity and both of which are working. So is the circuit breaker to the room. I tried looking into the switch but the wiring diagram was confusing to my untrained eye.

I did find the general maytag atlantis manuals on here of some use, but they don't have this specific model, and it's circuit diagram along with how to take off the pull-to-start timer knob. Any chance of finding a copy of it somewhere? I wouldn't mind donating for the public good

[Virtual Repairman]

Before we get too involved here, are you using a volt/ohm meter?
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[Caffeine]

Yes i do. I've tried a couple things:
- I've checked the thermal fuse
- the door switch
- I've tried jumping red 30 and yellow 34 that goes into the timer that supposedly connect the pull to start button.

[Virtual Repairman]

A technician would see if there is 120 volts getting to the motor with the door shut and the timer start button pressed. If not, the timer is probsbly bad. If voltage is present when the button is pressed, the motor is bad. Simple.

I don't know offhand which wires to measure voltage at because I do not have your wiring diagram in front of me like you do., so don't ask... They are all different, so there is no pat answer for every model. The key is this:
Either the motor is getting power or it is not. Makes a difference which.
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[Caffeine]

I've managed to get a copy of the schematic on my computer but couldn't figure out how to attach the file to this post. I've uploaded it here: http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/3457/img20101218121454.jpg

But it would probably be wise to move it somewhere on this site as it might get deleted and it might be needed to help someone later on.


I think i need to check voltages on terminal 4 and 2 on the motor drive. Would you agree? Also is it possible that the radiant sensor or the coiled might be causing an issue as well? The dryer was having a hard time heating before it went kaput! Thanks for your help!

[Virtual Repairman]

I suspect you need a new motor. You are slowly telling me information which is important to this case, so anything you might care to add helps me a lot. About the heating problem...I would unplug the dryer and physically remove the heater from the dryer so you can inspect the entire coil. The OHM reading may be deceiving if the coil is grounded out, etc. so you can pull it out to make sure.
Yes, you can also OHM the motor out at terminals 2 and 4 to see if it has continuity. A test cord can also be used to provide 120 volts to the motor manually. The easiest way is from the timer up top, as all wires lead to it. Notice the motor circuit on the Esterline chart above the diagram? It shows Y and Gy to be closed for the motor to run. Look at the corresponding wiring diargam for those 2 connections and you can easily see the route the current goes thru the motor. The drive motor only uses 120 volts, not 240. The 240 is for the heater only.
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