The Virtual Repairman's Appliance Help

[gezundheit]

Hi, I have a Kenmore Series 80 (110 16852502) that will agitate and drain but not spin. I actually recently just ordered the coupler and successfully followed the directions from here:

http://repair2000.com/coupling.html

Still, no dice w/the new coupler. I put in a full load of clothes, the washer agitated, made the draining noises but when I opened the top the clothes were still wet (apart from the drain noise, the washer actually makes "groaning" noises during the spin cycle). Frustrated, I waited about 45m looking at other issues people were having online. When I went back to the washer and put the lid back down, it started spinning.

I've read that possibly it is the timer that's gone bad (I'm hoping since it seems easy to repair). Is there anything else I should be looking for that I might have missed? Any info is greatly appreciated.

[gezundheit]

Just wanted to add that I haven't been able to figure out how to open the control panel. I was hoping I would be able to see the timer mechanism but I haven't been able to open it short of breaking something. Are there any instructions on how to get this open?

Also, I'm not sure where the lid switch on my machine is (I guess it's hidden for a reason). I tried feeling underneath along where the lid hinges swing but didn't find any mechanism that seems to do anything (though I do hear a distinct "click" whether or not the timer is set on).

Edit: I can also manually spin the basket in one direction.

[gezundheit]

Ok, well I figured out how to access the control panel thanks to one of the stickies. The accompanying video was very helpful.

http://www.repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=406

I found a little piece of paper with a wiring schematic which looks like a bunch of gobbledygook to me, heh. Otherwise, everything looks fine. It was surprisingly clean inside the control panel and there didn't seem to be any scorch marks. Superficially, it all looks fine.

Edit: Also, I'm going to put this URL in here for my parts so I don't forget it or somehow lose it. :p

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts?s=t-110.16852502-%3d%3d&z=100

[gezundheit]

Alright, well I followed this link:

http://www.repair2000.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=543

I had an old multimeter set to the lowest value @ 20 ohms. I touched the two outside wires on the plug that goes to the lid switch (yellow/green & gray) and they measured 0, either w/the timer set on the spin cycle or off. I reinserted the plug back into the lid switch and the spin cycle started again (the basket spun immediately as there was only a little water in it). Does this warrant the replacement of the lid switch? I'm going to do some more digging but I'm pretty pooped.

[gezundheit]

I'm kind of confused about which lid switch assembly I'm supposed to get (if in fact that is what I need to replace).

This link has an accompanying video but it shows that it has the physical switch that you can see on the rim of the washing machine:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/547225

Then there are these two other ones:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/2927
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/1018522

They are all one-piece affairs, but the third link (1018522) doesn't have a long wire.

Any info is appreciated!

[Virtual Repairman]

The lid switch for this machine is posted for you below. In fact, If you had just posted the first question and let me do this for you, we would not have needed 3 or 4 posts. Hopefully you have figured out by now that most of the answers you need for any problem are already here, it's just a matter of how you use the Search button to get there.
It is always possible your timer is causing the problem as well. Usually changing the lid switch will eliminate the cheaper part first. At least you are not paying for service, woo-hoo....

Click the following link pic to get your switch. Don't worry about the RepairClinic videos... while they are helpful, they don't always show your exact model nor part when they demonstrate something. That's where I come in


Lid Switch- click

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[gezundheit]

Part ordered! Thanks for the clarification! I'll check back in to update when it gets in and I've installed it. (Or if I have some more questions. )

[Virtual Repairman]

Great! One thing...if you do come back, please limit your post to one comment and wait until I have had the time to answer before posting again. Remember I am out in the field most of the time and don't live here on the computer like some folks

p.s. You see the Edit button on all of your posts?. You can add to a post using this and not have to click Reply . I get an email every time you make a new post so I try to keep the ping level to a minimum, dig?
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[gezundheit]

Hi, I *finally* got the part today, but it was the wrong one.

I should have done due diligence and looked at the pictures more closely. This is in fact the correct part (matches up to the one I just removed from my washer to check against their picture):

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/1018522

Hopefully their return process is painless...

Edit: I was able to take the cover off of the old lid switch assembly. I can mechanically move the "arm" that the hidden lid arm hits to make the clicking sound and see how it makes the spring move to move a metal part to make electrical contact. Everything inside the lid switch assembly looks intact and there's no corrosion or anything. Is it possible that something else is wrong besides the switch? (Something farther down.)

[Virtual Repairman]

You can jumper the 2 wires to that switch and allow the machine to run as if it were closed. n fact a lot of my tests in the field are conducted by removing the outer cabinet (2 minutes), jumpering the lid haness and commencing the machine operation. That way, I can see the motor turning the coupler, turning the tub, etc. Why don't you give it a try? If the motor does not run in the spin cycle with the lid switch bypassed, the timer or the motor is bad. We'll take it from there once you find out if the bypass works or not.
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[gezundheit]

Cool, well I took off the cover, jumpered the lid switch and quickly ran it through a wash cycle. I can see the motor running both when it is agitating and when it is spinning (clockwise, if that matters). BTW, I noticed that when it goes into spin it's pretty "lazy." I can let it spin up to max and easily force it to slow down and eventually stop with a couple of fingers. Does that give any clues about what might be ailing the washer? Thanks!

[Virtual Repairman]

Yep, finally we get to a lucid conclusion
You have described a weak, worn out clutch. This is easy enough to repair and is covered on this forum.

Clutch Replacement
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[gezundheit]

Thanks for the link! The page isn't clear, but is this like the coupler in that there isn't any model-specific clutch?

[Virtual Repairman]

One clutch fits all machines made by Whirlpool (Kenmore, Roper, KitchenAid, Estate) that have the drive coupling type of drive system. The one I showed on the clutch page is the right one for you too
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[gezundheit]

Great! I better review the clutch change videos on Youtube and do a dry run. As soon as I get the part I want to get it up and running in an hour! (I'm running out of clean clothes, heh.) Thanks again for your informative post. I'll come back again when I've got it up and running (knock on wood)...

[Virtual Repairman]

I'll be watching for your order...thanks.
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[gezundheit]

Well, I got the washer disassembled and ready for the new clutch as soon as it arrived. I was really happy when I got it back upright and did a dry run: it agitated, drained and spun (no clothes). So, I put in a medium load, let it do its thing then at the end of the first cycle: wet clothes.

I jumpered the lid switch again, put the timer back to spin and noticed the tub actually does spin, but it takes its time spinning up. Also, I have to make a modification when I said in an earlier post that I could slow the tub down. Yes, I can slow the tub down when it is first beginning to spin, but when it really gets flying it is, of course, dangerous and difficult to stop (I haven't really tried, haha). The thing is, in one of my old washers w/the switch you could readily depress, I would not be able to stop the washer from spinning at the beginning. Of course, I was younger then so maybe I was just...weaker. Does that sound right? Should I not be able to stop the tub from beginning the spin? Currently, while eyeballing it, it does seem to me that the spin does go full speed and the clothes are actually as dry as the washer can get it.

Extra info: When I had the washer on its back I noticed that the motor mount only had two large screws securing it in place (I found the third under the dryer). When I had the new clutch in I secured the motor with the three screws.

My question: Is it possible that I did not install the new clutch correctly? I was using this video as reference:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVc6SZ2DD4U

The part I was confused about was when they were putting the motor back in and they said to make sure the clutch spring was opposite the brake cam. Which part is the brake cam? Anyway, I still managed to get the motor back on and get the mount flush so I could put the screws in.

Right now I'm running w/an open lid and I'm gonna see how it goes through a full cycle (I will edit this post when/if it completes successfully). I think there's a good chance that it's working while jumpered. If so, does that mean the only obstacle now is a new switch? Any info is appreciated, and I thank you for hanging in here with me.

Edit: Haha, stupid me. The instructions were somehow stuck to the inside of the box and I missed it. I figured out what the brake cam is. Right now I'm just waiting for this load to finish spinning (looks really good), then I'm going to put in a new load and watch it from start to finish.

Edit2: I'm feeling pretty dumb now. I think the switch is probably okay at this point. When I put in the first load of clothes and let it run, I had opened up the lid as soon as it had paused during the first cycle (it was not the end of the first cycle as I erroneously mentioned earlier, but halfway through). I thought that was the end of the first cycle and that it had gone through the spin, but it probably hadn't--it had just paused after the drain and was going to do the rinse and spin. Anyway, I'm going to let the 2nd load with the jumpered switch complete, then I'm going to put the switch back in and try a 3rd load. I'm pretty confident at this point it's going to work.

Edit3: Ok, 2nd load w/the jumpered switch worked successfully! I probably jumped the gun in saying it didn't work. Waiting for the first load to finish drying in the dryer, then I'll load up the 3rd load w/the non-jumpered switch back in place. If this works then I will proclaim this a success!

Edit4: Alright, well the 3rd load (non-jumpered switch) worked perfectly. I've run out of things to wash so I'll have to see next week if I can replicate the success I've seen tonight (I think I will).

I want to thank Mr. Virtual Repairman both for his personal help and the useful links contained in and around this site. I actually have a job interview tomorrow, so hopefully w/my clean duds I'll be able to make a splash. A portion of my first paycheck (knock on wood) will be for a donation to our helpful friend. Hopefully my experience here will help others who are also in need. If not, well there's always the Virtual Repairman!

[gezundheit]

Well, I wanted to post another update. I did three more loads of laundry and the washer performed flawlessly. So, everything's working great thus far. (Unfortunately, I didn't get the job so I'm still in the hunt. ). Thanks for the useful site and the personal tips. I'll still be around. This place is a permanent bookmark.